50000 Watt Power Supply Repair AM Transmitter
The X box 360 is crooked to troubles and errors, as with any X box 360. Many gamers fear is the 3 red lights. This matter takes place when the 3 lights become red on the Ring of light on front of your X box 360 console. The upper-right quadrant light is the only light that does not flare red in the example. When your power supply light is showing red then here is some info on Xbox 360 3 red light repair.
Times will come when your X box 360s power supply will turn red or will completely turn off. While you are using your system will be able to describe when the power supply light changes from green to orange and orange to red. There are many kinds of causes why this will happen, but it will happen only when the external power supply have detected a fault.
To help you and your system prevent damage to the X box 360 and the power supply, the power supply has various built-in safeguards. When there is too much current, the voltage is too high, or when the temperature of the power supply is too high, the power supply will turn itself off. The light will change to red or turn entirely off when any of these three conditions happen.
Can you try out the X box 360 3 red light repair techniques? Whether or not the power supply is cool is the first thing to look. The may be the indicator of the power supply that it is too hot. You need to let the power supply cool for several hours in a well-ventilated space if this is the cause. Now turn off the system so that it can be cooled down and after that only turn on the system. As soon as it have cooled down the power supply light will turn orange from red and will permit you to turn on the X box 360 back.
To confirm that the power supply is plugged in right this is the basic Xbox 360 3 red light repair method. If you will plug it into power strip, an extension cord, or surge protector, then the amount of voltage may not be correct. Try plugging the power supply right away into the wall outlet in this cause.
Try using a different power cord and power supply unit is the last red light repair technique. If you are not having another power cord or a supply unit then try to test your console with this. If X box 360 is not turning up then the issue is the X box 360 itself. None of the three methods worked mentioned in this article then you will be going to have to pony up the dough to get your X box 360 fixed.
I had stopped repairing ATX power supply many years back due to the new one cost very cheap. It’s not worth to repair it because the spare parts sometimes were much more expensive than getting a new power supply. Searching for ATX power supply spare parts was not easy as many of them you can’t even find them on the internet. Not only that, many complicated and different designed by power supply manufacturers had eaten up our precious troubleshooting time too because of we need time to understand how all these different designed power supply work.
Some of the power supply designs were using the PWM IC (UC3842) and power FET, some use the double transistors while some use only a single power IC in the primary side. Because of the manufacturers wants the design to be made into compact size, many secondary or even primary power supply circuit were build into a modular board (smaller board). This made troubleshooting even more difficult because many times the meter’s probe can’t reach to the testing point.
The real reason why I had stopped repairing ATX power supply was the profit margin. If you charge to high the customers rather buy a new unit with one year warranty given. If you charge too low, you may end up in the losing side because of the components replaced, electricity and etc. If you charge reasonable, the profit margin gained can’t even cover your time spent on troubleshooting it. I’m here not to discourage you to stop repairing ATX power supply, however if you have the time, have contacts getting cheap power supply components, easy to access many power supply schematic diagrams and etc then you may go ahead to repair it.
Okay back to the article, one of my customers had asked me to repair his ATX power supply. I told him to get a new one (since it was very cheap) but he said he couldn’t find one that suits his customer’s CPU. He wanted a power supply that is either same size or smaller then the original one with same or higher specification but all he could find was a standard size power supply!
As a favors to my customer, I would do my best to help him to repair the ATX power supply. When the power supply was switch on, measurements were taken. The results were over voltage. The 12 volts line shot up to 13 + volt and the 5 volts line became 5.6 volts. After the casing was removed, I found the inside was very dirty and I used a vacuum cleaner and a brush to clean off the dirt. Then I saw four filter electrolytic capacitors had bulged at the top casing.
As you know, we as electronic repairers can’t just see things at only one side; we have to see the other sides too. What I mean was, try to see if there are any suspicious components that contributed to the failure of the power supply such as broken components, dry joints, loose connection, decay glue and etc before start checking the suspected area.
What I saw was at the primary side there were some components covered with decayed glue as seen in the picture. I have to carefully remove it by scrapping off the layers of the decayed glue while preserving the outer layers of the components. Once it was done, I clean it with the Thinner solution. Decayed glue could cause serious or intermittent problem in electronic equipment because it can be conductive.
If you repair any ATX power supply, make sure you check the fan too because some power supply failure was due to heat caused by a faulty fan. The purpose of the fan is to suck out all the heat generated by the components inside the power supply. In order for the fan to run smooth, you can service it by using a Philips oil base spray as shown in the photo.
Once the four electrolytic capacitors were replaced and the decayed glue removed, I then have to plug it into a junk motherboard together with a hard disk to test the performance of the ATX power supply and measure all of its output voltages. It seems like the output voltages were back to normal. Once everything is okay I then test it in a working CPU to check for the display.
The reason I test it with a junk motherboard first as a way not to cause my good motherboard to go bad just in case if the output voltages is still very high. Better safe than regret later. By the way you can’t test a power supply without load otherwise it may turned on for a while and then shut down. If you do not have a junk motherboard you can always at least connect a hard drive and a wire jumper to its connector to turn on the ATX power supply.
Do you know that most ATX power supply is using dual schottky barrier rectifiers to convert the ac wave into DC voltages? Even in LCD Monitor power supply, a dual schottky were used in the rectification too. For your information, checking schottky diode is different from checking a normal diode. With analog meter set to X10 K ohms, it should show some leakage reading when doing the reverse bias test. If this component becomes faulty it is very easy to get a replacement, of course you have to get one with the right specification. That’s all for today, hope you enjoy the article and come back more often to check out for any latest repair techniques that I’m going to share to you.
The Power Supply convert’s your regular household current into low DC voltage used by the computer. When this component fails,there is simply no activity going on wih your computer.Remember to do the easy troubleshooting first.Inspect the Power Supply for any damage.Double-Check all connections.
Learning how to check your power supply and how to replace it when needed can be a life saver if you’re a computer buff or in business with the trusted PC.Don’t take for granted the simple pleasure of turning on your PC and everything works just fine.
We turned on one of our computers recently and in about one hour,it just re-booted itself.And it continued doing so about 10 times a day until we found out the power supply was the culprit.Things to look for when your power supply is going bad or just dies on you are the following.
NO POWER TO THE COMPUTER
Here you must first check the wall outlet for power by connecting another device such as a radio or lamp to be sure power is present.If the computer is connected through a surge protector,check it as well.
If the wall out has power,check the power cable going to the PC to see if AC voltage is making its way to the system unit.Do this with the use of a multimeter.
If there is power,you will have to open the PC and check for power from the power supply to the motherboard.
When using a multimeter to check voltage,be sure you have a good ground for the black lead of the multimeter.
One main problem you may face with an ailing Power Supply is that it may re-boot the computer without any warning.All information is lost and it seems as though this happens at the worst possible time.
Booting errors when the computer first start’s up is another indicator of this component going on the blink.
POWER DISTRIBUTION PROBLEMS
When the power supply begins to fail,you may receive power at one device and not another.For example,the Hard Drive may receive power but the CDROM Drive has nothing at all.
Another headache with would cause re-booting is the intermittent power going to the drives or the motherboard itself.Follow the steps below to check your power supply should you experience some of the above problems.
CHECKING THE POWER SUPPLY
If the wall outlet,and the power cord are good,make sure the connection at the motherboard is secure.Then you may have to face the fact that the power supply itself is bad.If you have a Multimeter you can test the power supply output before purchasing a new one.Simply follow these steps.
Turn off the PC,but do not unplug it,open the system unit. Set the multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts.Locate a power connector similair to the hard drive,or cdrom drive connector that is unused and turn on the PC.
You can also unplug a drive connector and use it as well.Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into the power connector on one of the BLACK wires.Touch the RED probe to the YELLOW wire on the power connector.
The multimeter reading should be 12 volts Now touch the RED probe to the RED wire and the reading should be 5 volts.If no readings or different readings occured,you’ll have to replace the power supply.If the readings were correct,you should check the P8 or P9 connectors at the motherboard. These connectors may also be named P4 and P5.To check these connectors,perform the following…
Insert the BLACK probe into P8 at one of the BLACK wires. Insert the RED probe into the P8 connector at the RED wire. The reading on the multimeter should be 5 volts
Check the power going to the Motherboard connections by inserting the RED probe into P8 at the YELLOW wire and you should get 12 volts.Leave the BLACK wire touching the black wire at the P8 connector.Check the BLUE wire and the reading should be a -12 volts.
Now move the BLACK probe to the BLACK wire on the P9 connector.Test the WHITE wire by inserting the RED probe and the reading should be -5 volts.Check the RED wires on the P9 connector and you should get 5 volts on each red wire.You won’t get exactly 5 or 12 volts but the readings will be very close, such as 5.02 volts.
If the Power Supply is a couple of volts off,in either direction,such as when the RED wire should be reading -5 volts but it reads -8 volts,or if there are no readings,replace the power supply.
DO NOT remove the power supply from the system unit case when performing these tests.DO NOT perform these tests if you do not feel comfortable.Be sure to remove any and all electrical static build-up from your clothes and body BEFORE touching any parts inside the system unit.And NEVER open the power supply case for any reason,since high voltage may be present.
awesome guide, complete and powerfull.
It works good but for some reason the bass isn’t quite as strong as I might like. I’ll try it next with the original field coil speaker in the jukebox.
This power supply has 3 modules with independent power transformers to supply +5V, -5V and -27v. The -5V and -27V modules were replaced in 1992 or so and seemed to provide good voltage. I rebuilt the +5v module which was original from 1971 with new capacitors, new diodes, and replaced all of the AC power wiring which was brittle and cracked. Also I put heat sink grease on the regulator transistor as for some reason it never had it.
Repairing a Rhodes Suitcase 5 Pin power supply. www.vintagevibe.com
Typical problem with the Colecovision pwer supply. You can get the 12 and 5 volt regulators at Radio shack and the -5 volt regulator from Newark Electronics. CAUTION – this repair requires opening up the power supply, take all necessary precautions to prevent electric shock. Once finished, glue the cover back in place on the power supply.
Customer ATX power supply came in with the complaint of intermittent no power. When testing it with power on, I could see that the fan is not rotating. Not only that, some filter capacitors also became bulge because of the heat accumulated inside the power supply. The failure of the fan would not suck out the heat generated by the components especially the switch mode power transformer.
If you switch off a working power supply and power removed, touch the power transformer, you could feel it is quite warm. Another heat source would be the heat sink where the output diodes attached to it. Diodes run a little bit hotter in filter circuit than diodes in other circuits due to the high current present at the secondary output line.
As for the malfunction fan, you actually could use a Philips oil based contact cleaner to service the fan. The grease inside the fan would run dry after serving for sometimes and eventually stop rotating. Remove the back plastic cap of the fan and spray it with the contact cleaner and you would be surprised the fan could actually regain back its glory. It will actually work just like a new fan. If it still doesn’t rotate, the best choice is to replace with a new fan. If you have the power supply that lying down at your work place then you could salvage the fan and install it.
From the photo at my website you also could see those decayed glue that stick besides the components. Manufacturers purposely used some kind of glue to apply on the components where they think those components will shake or comes out when there is vibration or during shipping. After the equipment work for a long time and the heat generated inside the equipment will turn the glue into conductive and sometimes would even corrode the pins of the components and eventually cause the equipment to stop working.
Scrap it off with your test pen and use Thinner solution to clean the printed circuit board. After replacing the capacitors, removed the decayed glue and service the fan, the Atx power supply again given a new life to faithfully serve the computer.
Some ATX power supply would take you a longer time to troubleshoot because of ‘too many’ components on the board. The most frustrated part is that you could not get the spare parts especially the power ic. Even if you could locate one, the price would be sky high and if this happen, I will usually get the customer to buy a new unit since nowadays the price of a new one are quite cheap.